6.00pm | The Middle East in Palermo Viejo

Culinary offerings from Armenia and beyond

Armenians, Greeks and Syrians settled in Palermo from the start of the 20th century, bringing their own cultures, traditions and, of course, food.

Argentina received more Armenians than any other country in Latin America following the Armenian genocide between 1922 and 1930. There are now around 100,000 Armenians in the country, and 5,000 live in the neighbourhood of Palermo in Buenos Aires. In the area around the streets Armenia, Honduras, Scalabrini Ortiz, El Salvador, Aráoz and Lerma, you can find Armenian businesses, churches, and cultural associations. 

Catedral San Gregorio El Iluminador

Located at Armenia 1353, this Armenian cathedral can be recognised by its conical dome. It holds an image of Judas Thaddeus, one of the martyrs who took Christianity to Armenia. There is a school beside the church.

Buenos Aires' Armenian community celebrated its first mass in 1912 at a private home. The cathedral was inaugurated in 1932.

Sala Siranush

Beside the cathedral, at Armenia 1353, this venue hosts music and theatre.

Centro Cultural Tardón

This is a cosy Armenian cafe and theatre at the corner of Niceto Vega 4802 (and Armenia).

Viejo Agump

At Armenia 1382, this bar used to be frequented by some of the first Armenian immigrants. It offers Armenian food, snacks, drinks and even the chance to have your fortune told from coffee grinds.

Rotisería Medio Oriente

At Cabrera 4702, this rotisserie offers deli food. Long queues line up for the shawarma kebabs at midday on Fridays and Saturdays - they often run out.

Asociación Colectividad Helénica

This Greek Association is located at Julián Álvarez 1030. It has its own Cathedral - La Catedral de la Dormición de la Theotokos.

Iglesia de San Jorge

Close by at Av. Scalabrini Ortiz 1261, you can find this church nestled among stores selling Middle Eastern clothes, pipes and decorations.

Panadería Armenia

At Avenida Scalabrini Ortiz 1317, this was the first Armenian bakery in Buenos Aires, founded in 1930. It sells Middle Eastern pastries and sweets. 

Restaurante Armenia

This Armenian restaurant located on the first floor of the Asociación Cultural Armenia, at Armenia 1366, offers bellydancing shows at dinner.

Restaurante Sarkis

Located at Thames 1101, this restaurant is the ideal place to tuck into generous servings of delicacies such as kofta, Persian rice and raw kibbeh.

Instituto Marie Manoogian

At Armenia 1322, this school runs a restaurant serving dinner on Friday and Saturday nights in order to raise money to help students travel to Armenia to visit their ancestors' homeland. Dishes are prepared by the children's mothers and grandmothers, and tables are served by the children themselves. As well as tasting authentic food, you help a good cause. It's worth calling ahead to make a reservation: 4773-2820. Take away food is available from 6.30pm, and dinner is served from 8.30pm. 

Restaurante Al Fares

This informal restaurant at Aráoz 1047 is attended by its Syrian owners, who offer food from Damascus.

Al Furat

This take away place run by two elderly Armenians at Uriarte 1266 is a good option for a quick bite. Try the cheese, vegetable or meat fatay.

Unión Helénica Peloponense

This association at Humberto Primo 1470, organises occasional Greek dinners. Check the schedule at: www.facebook.com/UnionHelenicaPeloponense 


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